After some research on the internet and talking to a few people along our journey we decided that Nepal was stable enough (this week) to visit and that we would do as so many other sojourners have done before us and catapult ourselves from this city through the Himalayas, past Mt. Everest and onto the rooftop of the world itself- Tibet.
Over the years Katmandu has become the jumping off point for the most extreme adventurers in the world. Adrenaline junkies tackling Mt. Everest, K2, the Annapurna trail and countless other paragliding, bungee jumping and potentially life-ending activities all land at the Katmandu airport to begin their brushes with mortality. The central nervous system of this city is supported by these tourists bringing big dreams, big egos and big money with them. Because of this rip tide of foreigners you can go to dinner here and get very good Italian, Thai, Japanese, Korean, Indian and of course Nepali food. (Granted, you may have to live with yak cheese instead of Parmesan but culinary adventure is all part of the deal!) There are also plenty of German bakeries with warm chocolate croissants and lattes as well.
Here, the streets are clean, the boutiques are flourishing, the rickshaws are painted brightly and it's hard to imagine that this place can be so dangerous much of the time. Since the massacre of the royal family in 2001, the political system (which for 12 years had been lumbering toward a stable democratic state) here has been a mess. The people in power are apparently unable to reconcile the constitutional monarchy with the republic and are constantly dancing with a violent Maoist contingency. Sandwiched between two powerful neighbors and under ever increasing pressure from Beijing to stop harboring Tibetan refugees, peace seems to be an elusive commodity up here.
TIMING IS EVERYTHING
We are so lucky because right now the whole city is festooned with strings of marigolds, candles and lanterns for one of the biggest Hindu holidays of the year. Diwali- the mark of their New Year and celebration of Lakshmi, Goddess of prosperity. There are wandering bands blowing trumpets that sound like elephants, dancers whirling about in gold headbands and bright costumes, incense burns in every doorway and tiny bowls with oil and wicks illuminate the sidewalks like an emergency exit lane. All around, neon pink sugary sweets are sold, fireworks are bursting, children are caroling at storefronts and people are making beautiful sand Mandelas in their doorways to welcome Lakshmi with the hope she will stay for the year.
Last night we got to be part of the magic, pushing our way through markets teeming with people buying spices, sweets and wreathes of flowers as offerings. As we passed vendors they would smile and wave and yell "happy Diwali!" later we danced in the chilly air to a DJ rocking Nepalese hip hop, we got our foreheads smeared with red paste and marigold petals sprinkled on our heads by gurus for good luck. We drank Cuba Libres on a deck and watched the paper lanterns with candles rise slowly up and merge with the quiet swirling heavens. brilliant.
Angelo says after this trip we had better start praying to Lakshmi because right now we're entering the temple of Broke-shmi!
